GRAFTED Mango Ñam Doc Mai Fruit Tree 3’-4’
Its skin is green-yellow when ripe. The pulp is yellow and without fiber. Its flavor is very very sweet and aromatic. Its ripening and harvest time occurs in October / November.
- USA ZONES
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Grafting in mango cultivation consists of the selection of plants with characteristic patterns showing conditions of vigor, adaptation and fruit yield, according to the environmental conditions that make up the region, with the aim of giving a better productive response to the crops and obtaining higher profits.
The technology must go through a complex process, in which, from different types of stem and bud grafting —including the necessary care, materials and instruments—, techniques are carried out that allow obtaining beneficial results in cultivars. selected and the use of the resources intervened.
The implementation of the method allows the development of the capacities of technicians and producers regarding agronomic improvement, attention to plant health and food safety in mango production systems, in addition to representing a high impact for organic agriculture and the economy both regional and national.
Steps for Planting
DO NOT PLACE THE TREE DIRECTLY IN THE SUN. JUST WAIT TWO WEEKS BEFORE MOVE TO THE SUN.
- Identify the trunk flare. •The trunk flare is where the trunk expands at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted.
- Place the tree at the proper heigh •Take care to dig the hole to the proper depth – and no more. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. •Before backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm it is straight.
- Fill the hole gently, but firmly. •Pack soil around the base of the root ball to stabilize it. Fill the remainder of the hole, firmly packing the soil to eliminate air pockets that may dry out roots. Further reduce air pockets by watering periodically while backfilling. Avoid fertilization at the time of planting.
- Stake the tree, if necessary. •Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting.
- Mulch the base of the tree. •Mulch is organic matter spread around the base of a tree to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature extremes, and reduce grass and weed competition.
- Provide follow-up care. •Keep the soil moist, but not water-logged. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot, windy weather.
BEFORE YOU PLANT OUTDOORS
At the nursery these trees are grown under 20-40% shade cloth. If you plant this tree in a brightly lit area you may experience leaf burn. It is best to acclimate this plant to its environment by keeping it outside and slowly moving it into a sunny area over a week or two to avoid stress before planting.
All tropical plants grow very well in containers, indoors or on the patio. Smaller varieties grow best in 12″ to 16″ diameter pots while larger varieties need enough room for growth, generally a 16″ to 30″ diameter, 14 ” deep container will suffice. Remember the looser the roots, the taller and healthier your tree will be. When the tree becomes root bound its growth will slow, at that point it is time for a larger pot.
GROW ZONE & LIGHT
Best outdoors if grown in zone 10a-11. Depending on your location full sun is often best. The patio zone is 4b-11 which means the potted tree will flourish over the summer months in colder zones but must be brought inside before winter.
Trees enjoy a well drained, general potting mix easily found at your local box store. Remember try to stay away from arid or wet, mucky soils.
To help establish your new Tree, fertilize sparingly ten inches away from the base, tri-annually with a slow time released product. Unfertilized they will tend to grow at a slower pace. Note: The heavy salts in cheaper fertilizers will damage the roots and possibly kill the plant. Its best to use a brand you know and trust.